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Wine tourism in the Cher department

Wine tourism in the Cher department

The Cher department is part of the Centre Val de Loire region and of the Loire Valley. It corresponds to the Berry province that existed before the French Revolution. There are 5 AOC (Appellations of Controlled Origin) in this department. They allow the production of all colors of still wine. Some have a notoriety that extends far beyond the borders of France, and some are now getting more and more famous. Do you know them? I've had the opportunity to visit this beautiful area several times. It offers much more than wine, in particular to travellers who love architecture and gastronomy. This corner of the Loire Valley is perfect to spend long weekends combining visits of gardens, castles and other historical monuments. It also allows wine tourism with visits and tastings at winemakers' or at local wine houses representing the different AOCs of the area.

AOC Sancerre and Menetou-Salon

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The vineyard of AOC Menetou-Salon in the village of Morogues

Sancerre is undoubtedly the region's flagship AOC. Ask foreign wine lovers if they are familiar with this AOC and the answer will undoubtedly be positive. This is probably because 60% of Sancerre's production is now exported. Covering more than 3,000 hectares, this AOC mainly produces still white wines made from Sauvignon Blanc, but red wine production has been increasing recently, with wines made from Pinot Noir that, when aged in barrels, sometimes rival their Burgundy neighbours. Rosé wines, made from Pinot Noir as well, represent only a small percentage of the production. The clay and flint soils and those made of marl and fossilized oysters allow the production of wines with high acidity, often very mineral. On the other hand, "caillottes" (the local name for limestone stones) give less full-bodied and rounder wines. A wide variety of wines awaits you in this AOC, which you can discover at the "Maison des Vins" located in the village of Sancerre. Don't forget to taste the local white wines with the famous Crottin de Chavignol, an AOC goat cheese produced in the village located opposite the Sancerre hill (pictured in the banner of this webpage).

Could Menetou-Salon be called "Sancerre's little sister"? Actually this AOC, whose reputation is growing, has nothing to be ashamed of. It features the same soil as those in Chablis and the Aube (part of the Champagne area of production) regions: the famous Kimmeridigean marls allows for the production of mineral wines with high acidity. All three colors of wine are produced by AOC Menetou-Salon, with Sauvignon Blanc for the white wines and Pinot Noir for the reds and rosés. If you happen to be the village of Menetou-Salon at lunch or dinner time, you should stop at "C'heu l'Zib": this restaurant, which has been run by the same family for several generations, hasn't changed much for many decades. It serves hearty regional food, paired with Menetou-Salon wines presented on an endless wine list! This is definitely a meal you'll remember!

AOC Reuilly and Quincy

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Reuilly is the only AOC in the department that produces all three colors of wine. The vineyard is planted in six villages, both in the Cher and Indre departments, and covers approximately 300 hectares. The white wines are made with Sauvignon Blanc, the reds with Pinot Noir. Pinot Gris is one of the grape varieties allowed for the production of dry rosé wines. If you want to taste a local rosé, I recommend you try "Les Chatillons" from Domaine de Reuilly (formerly owned by winemaker Denis Jamain), it's amazing! Have it blind tasted, your guests will for sure think it is a white wine. For red wines, Baptiste Pointereau of Domaine de la Pagerie produces highly concentrated and fruity wines, ranging from light-bodied and easy-drinking wines (e.g. "Les Terres de Silice", to be enjoyed as an aperitif, with soft cheese or grilled meat in summer) to medium-bodied terroir-driven wines (e.g. "Les Belles Terres"). Luc Tabordet's red Reuilly is a light-bodied and crisp wine, with extremely fruity aromas. It amazes Pinot Noir lovers. I had this wine tasted in black glasses during a festive event and I surprised the guests who were not really sure about the colour of the wine that was in their glasses!

Quincy was the first wine AOC created in the Loire Valley in 1936. Just under 350 hectares are planted in two villages. This AOC exclusively produces dry white wines made from Sauvignon Blanc. If you were to taste only one wine, I recommend "Les grandes vignes de Villavin" produced by the Mardon & Tabordet estate: this wine is aged in jars, which gives it high acidity but also fat and roundness, as well as intense fruity and mineral aromas. I had the 2021 vintage tasted during a wine course in spring 2025, all the participants loved it.

AOC Chateaumeillant

Like Reuilly, AOC Chateaumeillant is located astride the Cher and Indre departments. It is the smallest of all 5 AOCs, with 70 hectares planted with Gamay Noir à jus blanc and Pinot Noir to produce red wines, and less than 5 hectares of Pinot Gris for the production of rosé wines. Blends are mandatory. This rare AOC is now looked for by wine lovers. I recommend tasting the wines of Domaine Lecomte, which is located in AOC Quincy but grows 3 hectares of vineyard in Chateaumeillant. Their red Châteaumeillant 2019 surprised the members of a wine club to whom I had it tasted in 2023. If you drive through the village of Chateaumeillant, the restaurant "La Goutte Noire" will allow you to taste some local wines served with local products prepared simply but elegantly presented.

What to visit in the Cher department?

Bourges, its cathedral, its light and sound show and its marshes

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Les Petits Plats du Bourbon, located in a former church

Bourges is the perfect city to spend a weekend: it's neither too big nor too small and it allows visitors to explore its historical monuments in the city center and its surrounding marshes in just two days.

Among Bourges' remarkable monuments is Saint Étienne's Cathedral, which has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1992. Its size and volume, both outside and inside, are impressive, and its majestic doors are adorned with numerous beautiful sculptures. The tourist office offers guided tours of the city and cathedral, as well as a tour dedicated to the cathedral's stained-glass windows. The oldest ones are full of details that tell stories that the common people will struggle to understand on their own. In any case, if you visit Bourges on a very warm day, as I did, this old monument will be a much-needed shelter.

In the evening, the "Nuits Lumières" offer a unique way to discover the city. Bourges is home to the very first light and sound walking tour in France that showcases the city center  with spotlights enhancing the main monuments and allowing visitors to discover their history. You'll undoubtedly appreciate the town hall and the Jacques Cœur Palace in a different and new way after walking through the city streets at night, guided by blue lampposts that will take you from one monument to another. A special, almost mystical atmosphere reigns in the cobbled streets of the town.

Finally, don't miss the Bourges marshes, only a stone's throw from the city center. This incredible natural area is made up of canals and small islands, most of which are only accessible by boat. A hiking trail, however, allows passerbys to enjoy the peaceful atmosphere. Park near one of the site's entrances and stroll leisurely, admiring the green environment and listening to the many birds. There are cafés and restaurants along the way where you can enjoy a meal if you'd like to spend several hours in the area. This is a truly unique, genuine and rejuvenating site.



Finally, if you want to eat in Bourges, I recommend the restaurant Les Petits Plats du Bourbon for its setting: it is located in a former church! The food is mostly prepared with local and seasonal produce and the wine list offers a selection of local wines as well as wines from other French wine-making regions.

The gardens of prieuré d'Orsan and the gardens of Ainay-le-Vieil castle

If you like gardens, beautiful homes and castles, here are some must-see places in  the Cher department.

"Prieuré d'Orsan" is located in the village of Maisonnais, south of Bourges (a 55-minutes' drive from the city). It was founded in the 12th century and belonged to the famous Abbey of Fontevraud. Nuns lived there until the French Revolution. The "Remarkable Gardens" were re-designed and re-created in 1994 and are absolutely amazing. You can wander through various spaces: a vegetable garden, an orchard, a cloister with hornbeams, a rose garden, flowerbeds... And there is even a vineyard! Not surprising for a place once inhabited by religious people, who consumed wine daily, during meals and mass.

Château d'Ainay-le-Vieil, which has been owned by the same family since the 15th century and was restored in 2023, combines medieval, Gothic and Renaissance architectures. The inside can be visited with a guide. However, you can wander on your own through the gardens, where water is everywhere - moats, canals and water mirrors. A rose garden planted with old varieties faces two magnificent Renaissance pavilions. To my mind, the "chartreuses" represent the highlight of the visit. They are walled gardens, communicating with one another by means of arcades. Each of them has a theme: the flower garden, the sculpted orchard, the meditation garden, the cloister of simples, and the embroidery beds. Each "chartreuse' is a little world in itself, where it feels nice to linger, smell flowers, sit and contemplate the landscape formed by trees, flowers and plants. I visited these gardens when the weather was a bit overcast and rainy but the place still looked extremely beautiful.

Noirlac Abbey

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Noirlac Abbey, located in Bruères-Allichamps, near Saint Amand-Montrond, was founded in 1136. It was confiscated and sold during the French Revolution. It housed a porcelain factory in the 19th century, before becoming the property of the Cher department in 1909. It was transformed into an orphanage and then into a camp for Spanish refugees, before being restored between 1950 and 1980. These different activities have contrubuted to making Noirlac one of the best-preserved Cistercian abbeys in France. I am very fond of cloisters, and the one at Noirlac is indeed well-preserved, with its well, its chapter house... Artists, and in particular musicians, regularly perform in the church of the abbey, where the acoustics is ideal. If you have time left after the visit, go for a walk in the surrounding countryside and stroll along the shaded banks of the Cher, the river which gives its name to the department to which this article is dedicated!

Loire Wine Tours

Myriam Fouasse-Robert

Charmigny

37210 Chançay

+33 6 52 16 97 07

rdvdanslesvignes@gmail.com

tourism-in-Loire-Valley-France

Wine is a cultural product. It should be enjoyed as such and consumed in moderation.

Alcohol abuse is bad for your health.

The prices mentioned are valid from January 1st to December 31st 2025.